"We clean up more after Mardi Gras"

Drudge has a report about a group of business people planning to reopen the French Quarter in 90 days -- in time for Mardi Gras. (This is precisely the type of individual initiative I praised earlier, and I am delighted to see it!)

While details like utilities and sewage will need some attending to, this won't be quite as big a deal as it might seem. The French Quarter is on higher ground, and it came through in fine shape.

Here's a typical account (via the BBC, but unfortunately it's not on the front pages of most American newspapers):

Finis Shelnutt is enjoying a beautiful September day. The sun is blazing hot, the sky perfectly clear, and he has a table with a tidy white tablecloth all to himself in front of Alex Patout's Louisiana Restaurant.

Finis Shelnutt is ready to open his restaurant again post-Katrina

His moustache is perfectly trimmed. Not a hair is out of place. His collarless striped shirt hangs comfortably open at the neck. And he gazes serenely out at the world through tinted glasses.

"Beautiful day," he nods in greeting as two people walk past.

What's wrong with this picture?

The restaurant where Mr Shelnutt is sitting is in the centre of the French Quarter of storm-and-flood-ravaged New Orleans.

He proudly points out local gastronomic landmarks; Antoine's, where Oysters Rockefeller was invented; Brennan's, which developed Eggs Benedict; Paul Prudhomme's, which popularised the cooking of blackened fish.

Sitting on high ground, the Big Easy's main tourist destination was almost entirely untouched by the storm.

And now, with the city evacuated and shut down, it is entirely untouched by tourists. The streets are empty.

Mr Shelnutt doesn't expect that to last long.

"We're ready to open up," he says confidently, as two restaurant employees haul containers of rotting meat out of the building.

Mr Shelnutt puts a positive spin even on that, smiling through the stench lingering in the air.

"Good to be doing that now. When the other guys come back to open up their restaurants in a month, they're going to have a hell of a job cleaning up."

And he is entirely certain they will come back and open up.

"You have to be an optimist, not a pessimist," he says.

He is also, under his practiced bonhomie, a practical-minded and shrewd observer of human behaviour.

Will tourists come back to the city after watching the floods and fires on television?

Of course they will, Mr Shelnutt says. Morbid curiosity will drive them. Next year's Mardi Gras will be among the biggest ever, he is sure.

Around the corner, Frank, who says he never gives out his last name, agrees.

Sweeping up in front of Evelyn's Place, he shrugs off the damage the hurricane caused.

"We clean up more after Mardi Gras," he says.

The word has been badly overused, but it is simply surreal to stroll around the French Quarter post-Katrina.

Like a film set after the cast and crew have gone home for the night, the district is utterly charming, entirely peaceful and largely silent.

Even the pay phones are working

But what would Massa FEMA say? [I suspect it would be along the lines of "You mean, we haven't we cut all the phone lines yet?"]

More here and here.

Jean Lafite's Blacksmith Shop (an old pirate hangout and my favorite bar in the world) came through fine, which isn't surprising, as it's been doing that for nearly 300 years.

Here's a picture of that wonderful place:

Lafite.jpg


(Too bad I have to spend the day in New Jersey!)

There seems to be a very stubborn ghost in the picture above, but I think it should be allowed to stay.

If there's one thing I've learned in life, it's that bureaucracy and ghosts do not mix.

I mean, like, who you gonna call?

posted by Eric on 09.10.05 at 08:41 AM





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Comments

That's good -- Jean Lafite's Blacksmith Shop. That ghost must be the ghost of a pirate.

This article is all well and good and, really, I wish the best of luck to everyone trying to make it in New Orleans, but I find it interesting that this and most other articles about Mr. Shelnutt fail to note that he is married to Gennifer Flowers. His restaurant serves the food for her place, "Gennifer Flowers Callisto Club" (I think). He's a "a practical-minded and shrewd observer of human behaviour." Yeah, OK. Whatever.

I'm not sure that marrying "Gennifer With a G" after she achieved "fame" "restores classical values" either but, again, to each his own.

Prince   ·  September 15, 2005 07:06 PM


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